Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
